We came across the name Naibunga conservancy through pure considence and a somewhat stubborn inquisitive nature of my always travelling companion Diana. Our guide Patrick Lpisikishu is a treasure trove of information on matters conservation and culture. So during one evening while enjoying a sundowner around Kalama and watching the sunset over the distant hills, he mentioned a “little known conservancy - Naibunga”. His tales on how rugged and yet beautiful the landscape is kept us captivated and this triggered our collective “wanderbug’ without saying a word, we knew this was a journey we had to undertake before returning to the city.

Naibunga Conservancy is located in the Mukogodo Division of Laikipia County and is composed of 9 group ranches that came together in order to jointly manage over 50’000 hectares of rangelands with tourism and conservation as the cornerstone.

The 2hrs drive towards Nanyuki as always very picturesque with amazing views of Mt. Kenya and the Aberdares, the real adventure starts with the 58km drive towards Dol Dol town, slightly half of this road is tarmacked leaving a rugged terrain for the rest of the way back into Samburu country with amazing views across the Lekurruki Plains all the way to the sacred Mount Ololokwe.

We crossed numerous luggas, always take precaution while crossing them as a small miscalculatin might get you stuck in some sort of quick sand, secondly, before crossing a lugga have an advance party check the exit side of the intended route, many a time we have gone into a lugga only to find that the exit side is unpassable creating more risk by making numerous turn arounds. 

With the assistance of the rangers, we got to Wakumbe Hills Campsite, the drive to the camp is breathtaking and our arrival was rewarded by the amazing views. Rangers here are extremely knowledgeable and will assist you settle down very quickly. 

The night was chilled and the sky without a hint of cloud cover – millions of stars, constellations plus the odd night sounds made the night beautiful and nostalgic.

Soon it was morning and we sadly had to pack up and head out same way we came in for Nairobi. This is indeed a hidden gem that we must return to explore some more. The rolling hiils, massive kopjes and luggas, the meandering dry river beds are all etched in our collective mind. Soon it will be time to head back North.


There are other campsites in Naibunga – Tiamamut and Sunyai.

Clean water is only available at the Naibunga upper HQ, One must carry drinking water

Rangers are provided at an additional nominal fee and they come self sufficient 



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